A report by AMC Newton for QHQ
June 2024
Fig 1. Future Fabric Expo 2024 entrance
Overview
Welcoming thousands of visitors from across the globe, the Sustainable Angle’s latest iteration of the Future Fabric Expo in London from 25-26th June was well worth a visit.
Fig 2. Informational banner
Information from the organisers about the show:
10,000+ materials & innovations
• Textiles from regenerative agricultural farming systems
• Agricultural waste derived feedstocks
• Certified Organic cottons
• Regenerated cellulosic such as Tencel™ Lyocell and Refibra™ technology
• Circular & certified recycled natural materials, post and pre-consumer
• Low-impact wools and animal fibres
• Sustainable silks
• Linen and hemp
• Responsibly produced leather and innovative alternatives to animal skins
New this Year
Future Fabric Expo 2024 was given the prestige of being the Flagship Event for Fashion & Textiles at London Climate Action Week 2024. This annual event is a festival that brings together individuals and organisations who are tackling our climate emergency. Their hashtag of #beattheheat was particularly appropriate for the 30-degree weather we experienced in London on the days of the expo, with many being relieved to be in the cool halls rather than outside in the hot & humid weather.
Fig. 3 Interiors Showcase
A home and interiors showcase featured material and design innovations. Great to see materials which would primarily be thought of for fashion being utilised in different applications for the home.
Fig. 4 Maison/0 tableware project
From UAL& LVMH’s Maison/0 a design research project examining tableware. As Carole Collet, Director shared, it’s time to question the unspoken codes we have, for example that high quality glass found in Michelin star restaurants must be transparent, this has a less planet friendly manufacturing process. It’s time to redefine what is high quality, what is luxury.
Innovation
The latest innovations are always a highlight of any visit to the Future Fabric Expo and this year did not disappoint, with it being hard to get near the showcase at times during the show. Wonderful to see some of the work from graduates through to established businesses featured in the innovations. Here are some highlights:
• Digitised fabrics from Bureau 555
• Protein colour and fibre alchemy from Werewool
• Buttons made from cigarettes from Rezero
• Utilising waste from grape production from Planet of the Grapes
• Biomaterials for Healing from Erinn Hayhow
Fig. 5 Gabby Shiner Hill, Bureau 555
Fig. 6 Valentina Gomez, Werewool
Fig. 7 Buttons from cigarettes, Rezero
Fig. 8 Samantha Mureau, Planet of the Grapes
Fig. 9 Erinn Hayhow
Some themes that emerged from the innovations this year include:
• Colour-from non-synthetic sources
• Saving materials from landfill-utilising ‘waste’ from other industries like food
• Bio-inspired; whether bio-mimicry, bio-engineering or bio-design
• Planet over profit- the innovators I spoke to are more interested in making a big difference than making big profits
Fig.10 Bio-theme from Modern Synthesis
Fig 11-12 Seminar Series
An engaging seminar series, as seen in Figs 11-12 proved to be very popular. The interiors talk on Day 2 was particularly interesting as it highlighted how in terms of ‘sustainability’ the fashion industry is in the limelight, but less so the home and interiors market. Some staggering statistics were mentioned, like 42% of the 900K tonnes of textile waste being incinerated or sent to landfill each year is home textiles (Euratex). The lack of recycling of UK home textiles, or the UK being stand-alone in its flame retardancy legislation for sofas which requires the use of large quantities of potentially harmful synthetic chemicals.
‘why aren’t people up in arms?’
Simone Suss, of interiors firm Studio Suss commented that it’s baffling that our interiors are so toxic; ‘why aren’t people up in arms?’ she asked. In answer, it’s because many people have no knowledge of the situation. There is less coverage on this topic in the media, however, that can always change, and as Delyth Fetherston Dilke of Delyth Upholstery, a former lawyer turned upholsterer said “invite me to talk at your association”. A great advocate for planet friendly interiors, Delyth spoke passionately about the challenges and possible solutions for home textiles and flame retardancy legislation.
Fig 13. Informational graphic
Summary
Gill Gledhill of the Alliance for European Flax, linen and hemp, commented on the increased attendance at the Expo this year, and the diverse mix from newcomers through to seasoned industry veterans. If this is any indication for attendance next year, it’s well worth either checking out New York edition in November 2024 or think ahead for June 2025 in London.
‘this work can be pro-anxiety,
we need to know how to dream’
One term that stood out from the talks was from Julian Ellis-Brown of Ponda who talked about ‘planet-healing’ supply chains which is language that indicates the shift from let’s fix the bad, to let’s heal the damage we are doing and give back to the planet. This also feels like a positive approach for what can be overwhelming work; however, one way to tackle this anxiety is to engage our inherent creativity and imaginations . Carole Collet of UAL’s Maison 0 summarised; ‘this work can be pro-anxiety we need to know how to dream’
What is your dream for the future of textiles, fashion and interiors? What is your dream for healing our planet?